NEIL JAY CHRISTOPHER
Designer, Pattern Maker And Production
London
Summary
A highly experienced clothing designer based in London with a career spanning over 25 years. My expertise encompasses a wide range of clothing collections, from light jerseys to heavyweight tweeds, for both men and women, and he has worked with renowned brands such as Nike, Adidas, and Carhartt. I have a strong understanding of fabric development and have managed design teams in Japan and the USA. With a skills profile includes design, garment technologist, pattern cutting, product/fit development, and fabric sourcing and development I currently hold the position of Head Designer, Pattern Cutter, Production and Design Manager, as well as Fabric Development at ARN, where the focus is on sustainability and 3D design and cutting for mid-range/high-end fashion buyers.
Overview
22
22
years of professional experience
1
1
Language
Work History
Head Designer, Pattern Cutter, Production and Design Manager, Fabric Development
ARN Mercantile
01.2007 - Current
- Built the business from the ground up, one of the first total Sustainable eco brands in the Japanese market
- I took sketches of finished garments and made toile pieces and body adjustments. Working with sample production and full-scale wholesale production (local and offshore)
- Direct production method, to decrease time loss in production, thus increasing profit margin
- Developing and Matching the fabrics and trims to the process/garments
- Working with weavers and mills to build new processes to enable ‘eco’ standards to be exceeded.
- Cutting/designing a range of 80+ garments per season, cutting by hand the patterns, and developing grades both by hand and with Gerber systems.
- ARN Mercantile is a design/tailoring lead agency/brand, developing ‘own brands’ for outside clients. The focus is on sustainability, reduced waste 3D design and cutting, fit, and developing a product aimed towards a mid-range/High-end fashion buyer, both men’s and women’s.
- The business is mainly aimed at the Asia markets with America and Europe as a secondary market.
Brand Developer, Lead Designer, and Production Manager
KATO' LTD/B&A LTD
01.2004 - 01.2007
- Designed Export collections and Production/Development, including fabric, trims & styling, and sales samples and the finished product runs.
- Re-blocked for fit-focused shapes, across the ranges (US, Japan, and EU)
- Rebuilding lightweight woven cloths, cotton, and fabric supply templates to reduce time and costs
- Thorough understanding of the pre-production and in-line production cycles including time & action calendars, drop dead dates, and factory scheduling, allocation & costings.
- Pattern development and sample cutting (working on Gerber and Japanese systems)
- Kato’ is a cross-gender denim company based in Kyoto, as well as its label we worked with RRL, Polo, Denimes, 45RPM...etc., building denim and cotton collections with their in-house teams.
- Based in London and Kyoto, split with time between the Kyoto Office and London Showroom, my company (B&A) was bought by Kato EU Ltd in December 2001.
Education
Pattern cutting apprenticeship -
I worked during my school holidays, learning a trade, working with skilled cutters and pattern makers, my Dad made me do it, and I never thanked him for it, not properly anyway
Skills
Design
ARN mercantile, developed concepts, designs, and shapes (work-wear/denim, heritage, soft tailoring) for men, women's, and childrenswear
Kato AAA, high-end Okayama Denim range base with cotton and soft fabrics 7 seasons, plus ARN/AAA tool project co-lab, ongoing men, women, and kids
PKH, vintage and denim, built blocks based on vintage and updated for contemporary fit for all collections and ran all production both local and offshore
Managed a 20 team design office in Japan and 30 USA and UK
Fabric Development
Combined heritage systems with modern processes within the Japanese and US weaving industry
Exceeded the ‘green’ license requirements, in the EU, US, and Japan, established improved process controls for ‘GL’ and sustainability
OTHER INFORMATION
- Guest lecturer at UAL/St Martins/LCF for Pattern, Production, and Fabrics
- DBS-certified and safeguarding trained via the Social Care Institute for Excellence (SCIE)
- Only connect Charity, working with CJS within the ‘Handshake, not Handout’ front-line work/creative development
- Member of the FFA
- RYA Navigation and Seamanship
- Windsurf/Skateboard maker
- I started working in the clothing industry at the age of 13, focusing on layout, pattern making, and cutting. I then moved to retail, beginning as a sales assistant and eventually working my way up to becoming the menswear buyer at Browns. After that, I relocated to the United States, where I traveled across the country buying and selling vintage denim and menswear.
- I also established a factory that produced vintage-inspired clothing for both men and women. My journey took me to Japan, where I worked in the denim triangle and helped develop the European market for a Japanese brand. Upon returning to the UK, I transitioned back into a designer role, collaborating with well-known UK, EU, and American labels within the denim and menswear niche markets.
- Additionally, I launched and maintained a small UK brand that produced tailored and heritage-inspired menswear and ladieswear for over 20 seasons, along with collaborations with stores and other brands and limited-run garments. I feel fortunate to have gained experience in all aspects of the clothing industry.
- I have learned a great deal from hands-on experience and have had the privilege of working alongside incredibly skilled individuals. Thank you for your time.
Timeline
Head Designer, Pattern Cutter, Production and Design Manager, Fabric Development - ARN Mercantile
01.2007 - Current
Brand Developer, Lead Designer, and Production Manager - KATO' LTD/B&A LTD
01.2004 - 01.2007
The Spirella Company of Great Britain - Pattern cutting apprenticeship,